Corn is what feeds the steer that becomes the steak. Corn feeds the
chicken and the pig, the turkey and the lamb, the catfish and the tilapia
and, increasingly, even the salmon, a carnivore by nature that the fish
farmers are reengineering to tolerate corn. The eggs are made of corn.
The milk and cheese and yogurt, which once came from dairy cows that
grazed on grass, now typically come from Holsteins that spend their
working lives indoors tethered to machines, eating corn.
Head over to
the processed foods and you find ever more intricate manifestations of
corn. A chicken nugget, for example, piles corn upon corn: what chicken
it contains consists of corn, of course, but so do most of a nugget‟s other
constituents, including the modified corn starch that glues the thing
together, the corn flour in the batter that coats it, and the corn oil in
which it gets fried. Much less obviously, the leavenings and lecithin, the
mono-, di-, and triglycerides, the attractive golden coloring, and even the
citric acid that keeps the nugget “fresh” can all be derived from corn.
To wash down your chicken nuggets with virtually any soft drink in the supermarket is to have some corn with your corn. Since the 1980s
virtually all the sodas and most of the fruit drinks sold in the supermarket
have been sweetened with high-fructose corn syrup (HFCS)—after
water, corn sweetener is their principal ingredient. Grab a beer for your
beverage instead and you‟d still be drinking corn, in the form of alcohol
fermented from glucose refined from corn. Read the ingredients on the label of any processed food and, provided you know the chemical
names it travels under, corn is what you will find. For modified or
unmodified starch, for glucose syrup and maltodextrin, for crystalline
fructose and ascorbic acid, for lecithin and dextrose, lactic acid and lysine, for maltose and HFCS, for MSG and polyols, for the caramel color
and xanthan gum, read: corn. Corn is in the coffee whitener and Cheez
Whiz, the frozen yogurt and TV dinner, the canned fruit and ketchup and
candies, the soups and snacks and cake mixes, the frosting and gravy and
frozen waffles, the syrups and hot sauces, the mayonnaise and mustard,
the hot dogs and the bologna, the margarine and shortening, the salad
dressings and the relishes and even the vitamins. (Yes, it‟s in theTwinkie,
too.) There are some forty-five thousand items in the average American
supermarket and more than a quarter of them now contain corn.This goes
for the nonfood items as well: Everything from the toothpaste and
cosmetics to the disposable diapers, trash bags, cleansers, charcoal
briquettes, matches, and batteries, right down to the shine on the cover of the magazine that catches your eye by the checkout: corn. Even in
Produce on a day when there's ostensibly no corn for sale you'll
nevertheless find plenty of corn: in the vegetable wax that gives the
cucumbers their sheen, in the pesticide responsible for the produce‟s
perfection, even in the coating on the cardboard it was shipped in. Indeed,
the supermarket itself—the wallboard and joint compound, the linoleum
and fiberglass and adhesives out of which the building itself has been
built—is in no small measure a manifestation of corn. And us? "
The Omnivore's Dilemma - A Natural History of Four Meals
Michael Pollan